2 January 2009 – Karanga to Barafu
Another beautiful start to the day. The long path out of the campsite was already busy with porters on their way to the final camp before the summit. Boulder strewn and dusty, looks like a long slog today. The air up here is fantastically clear for photos and Meru looks on from behind. The banter is reduced, and the going is quite tough as we soon ascend into the mist and the temperature drops again, the light becoming atmospheric. The trail seems busier today for some reason, and owing to the lack of water at the next camp there are porters moving in both directions to ferry water from Karanga. Barren and very open terrain. Lunar, again. Like another planet. Great view of the camp toilets perched on a cliff edge from a long way below!
Barafu is steep, rocky, long and narrow. Stunning angle up to the summit and down the flanks almost to the bottom. Great above cloud views, feels like a mountain now! Food, briefing, repack, bed. Tired, and fall straight into a restless sleep. I become aware of my breathing being very shallow, and after 3 or 4 shallow breaths I stop breathing and then wake up with a gasp and a deeper breath. This repeats itself and I can here Bob doing the same thing. After a few hours of this, we wake 15 mins before 11pm and layer up, 5 layers and my down jacket on top and three layers on the bottom… Michelin man! Tea and biscuits, appetite suppressed and a a little apprehensive about hydration when I get my two bottles refilled. But hey, too late now, time to go!
3 January 2009 – Summit Day
Actually managed to sleep a reasonable amount in the afternoon and only woke up 15 mins early. I really noticed the difference in oxygen level at this altitude. 2 or 3 shallow breaths before thinking you’re suffocating (exaggeration) and then a larger ‘gasp’ wakes you up. Very strange. This continued most of the afternoon/evening. Not unpleasant, but very weird and I was glad to get the wake up call for the summit bid. All decked out in 5 base layers, my down jacket and windproof, our bags all packed and rucksacks containing little more than a couple of snacks and two litres of water. All that the guides were advising and pretty much all we could get as this camp had no water supply (this would later prove to be horribly insufficient. I’d much rather have started with a heavier pack and been better hydrated, but more of that later).
Tea and a couple of biscuits was all we got and if I’m honest I couldn’t really eat a lot. Nerves, excitement and the memory of a rough stomach during the last 24 hrs stifled my appetite. A dry mouth and ‘hangover head’ also didn’t help. I had mixed up an energy drink with hot water however, and we’d been given a small and as usual inadequate lunch. But enough of the negatives. I popped an ibuprofen and at midnight, we stepped out into the chill air and formed a line behind Thomas. A line of headlamps could be seen zig-zagging up towards the stars and a very black mountain side. Still had a niggling headache but ignored it and away we went. Steady but pole-pole pace into the dark. After 5 days now I couldn’t feel the weight of the pack anymore, but the thinner air was definitely noticeable and anything faster than Thomas’ metronome pacing brought very heavy breathing. The mood seemed subdued as we focused on the heels in front and the rocks underfoot. My world reduced to a small pool of light at my feet and expanded only once an hour as we stopped to drink and gaze out at the stars as I caught my breath. The first hour we scrambled through the steep rocky campsite and into unfamiliar territory. The night so black it was impossible to see what lay before us. Good pace, but in less oxygen and no wind, I started to get warm. 1hr, water stop, nibble some chocolate, another hour, poo stop, false alarm, drink keep going.1/3 of the way there (or so I thought). Another hour (mood) still high, some regular checks of altitude (3 hrs in and steadily overtaking quite a few other groups on the way, perhaps a sign of our better acclimatisation over a slower ascent. All this despite feeling we were moving very slowly.
Just focus on the steps, eat a little (gel) at every water stop and keep moving. My head hurt, my stomach feels empty and I’m unsure about whether farting is a good idea. I didn’t quite imagine (I guess I should have) that I wouldn’t feel 100% on this day. Still 4 hours in and we’re all still moving. A couple of the girls have relinquished their bags to Thomas and Limo but we’re all together and still moving steadily upwards. The terrain is steep but not complicated underfoot. Some smoothish rocky sections and other dusty, fine, well-worn scree. Horizon starts to get light, temperature has dropped a little but I’m plenty warm enough and haven’t needed all my layers of gloves.
I don’t think anyone found it easy, some would later say that it was the hardest thing they’d ever done, but remarkably (according to Jane) none of us suffered any altitude problems other than minor headaches and a mild case of nausea.
Sunrise was a welcome distraction, the light and colours stunning. Mwenzi silhouetted against the glow. We could now see where we were going, and the slow pace of those we’d passed and one or two needing support. I myself was suffering the lack of food and dehydration and Stella Point was still a way off. We’d now been going over 6 hours and I think collective moral was struggling, believing we’d fallen behind the pace. Eventually it came, we regrouped at Stella Point and the temperature dropped as the breeze increased on the exposed ridge. Still, only felt it on my face and we’d begun the last leg… man it was long. We’d been chopping and changing our order as we stopped and started, which was nice as it regulated our pace. Now in full sunlight and clear skies and at over 5700m the terrain was no longer steep but it still took over 1 hour to make the final 100m of ascent. The view is magnificent and the enormity of the crater, glaciers and summit almost unbelievable, and to me, quite unexpected. Still got a headache, dehydrated and with that empty stomach feeling – step, step, step, breathe. James repeatedly asked to carry my bag (he already had someone else’s along with his own). I refused and kept smiling. He was singing loudly and encouraging (he’s done it well over 100 times in the 8 years he’s been on the mountain) Video camera comes out for the last 5 mins. Heads down for the final few metres.
Relief more than jubilation. It is spectacular up there in the clear blue sky. The thing is ENORMOUS! The summit being on one side of a huge volcanic crater. The glaciers are sheer, white and tall. Impressive but somehow, even though I never saw them in their former glory, they feel a bit forlorn and lonely. Dusty, yet ‘clean’. Whilst thin, the air was good and the ‘hugs’ said all that was necessary. One or two tears from some.
Flurry of summit photos, hurried along by an impatient American woman. 15 mins maximum before the headache, thirst and hunger reminded us that the privilege of this visit came with a time limit and it was time to head down.
Not too much to say about the descent other than…
2 ½ hours sliding down scree. Found plenty in my boots later. Now warming up, heading down to camp, tired, thirsty, headache, but goal achieved. Ran out of water (2 litres for 12 hrs, crazy!) On water breaks fell asleep on the hard ground with bag for a pillow to be awoken, groggy for the continued descent. Too dusty for many photos unfortunately but also a good excuse cos I was knackered. Looking down slope, camp was visible most of the way. Lucky we climbed in the dark, would have been soul destroying to see the route!
Step, slide, step slide. I’m tired. Group split on the way down. K, G, me and Jane at front with Thomas.
Eventually after 4 hrs and some brief naps in the sun we stumbled into camp, greeted by Abdullah and some squash, and a hug or two! They’re great at being enthusiastic for you.
30 mins sleep on the cold hard floor of the tent – no energy to unpack karrimat or sleeping bag – best sleep all week! Final lunch of soup and cheese toasties, another 1 hour to re pack and rest before 3 hour hike to final camp. Dry hail, porters running down the mountain. Surprisingly I’m not aching or feeling too fatigued and the walk down is not unpleasant, down into the scrub, valley views spectacular once cloud cleared. Very green, straight from the lost world. Curve-billed bird with black plumage and green flashes on wings (must look up). Everyone’s mind now on a shower, beer and no more iodine! Heavily wooded camp. Last supper included fried chicken and chips with beer and coke! Not much energy for games tonight, some reminiscence of the looooong day, and to bed. Lots of snoring around but that no longer held me back. Slept all the way through undisturbed
4 January 2009 – Off the mountain…
Easy stroll down to the bus for tip ceremony, hounded by locals hawking tourist souvenirs, beautiful surroundings for the village, banana plantations mainly. Shook hands and said ‘jambo’ to a little boy, got a shy smile from him and a laugh from Thomas. Shower, re-pack, didn’t recognise everyone clean! Swim in the pool, sit in the sun, eat with the guides, they were herded off by Thomas, James (a non-drinking-vegetarian) was fine with that, Limo however was enjoying a couple of beers and looked most put out!
Bob and I were going to visit a local market but time was short and by that point we couldn’t be bothered anyway! Was soon time to get the bus back to the airport and onto the plane home. We sat on the runway in Dar on the way home for a couple of hours, where I was sat between two German women, one of which was the most miserable woman I’ve come across in a while! We eventually took off and despite a rammed plane, I found a seat in the row behind, next to a quiet bloke, and promptly dozed off, waking up 7 hrs later for breakfast! Came home to colder temps in Birmingham than on top of the mountain!
Stuart Westwood 