I’m digging up old memories for inspiration, so here follows the unedited diary I kept whilst climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in 2008. It will be a four part series released over the next four Fridays…
The highest point in Africa and one of the seven continental summits, this was my first foray to altitude, and the furthest I’ve been into Africa so far. It won’t be my last mountain, nor will it be my last adventure on this enigmatic continent.
TRIP DIARY
27 Dec 2008 – Arrival
Smells like wood smoke and wild animals. Can hear crickets through the dark.
Big sky, but full and bright. Must check out southern hemisphere stars.
Roads not bad and the people are friendly. My group seems a good bunch.
LOVE the smell here!
So far I only have my imagination to go on for the scenery but the odour is intoxicating and the temperature wonderful. Easy to romanticise I know, but I’m excited for what tomorrow may bring. The road is very straight and I’m thirsty! (and as ever, hungry of course) Back was a bit stiff on the plane but there’s plenty of time to loosen it up! I’m so glad I came here. The memory of my flu (no, not just the ‘man’ variety) is beginning to fade, despite it’s severity leading me to conclude that I’d probably never had flu before.
The only clue to our being in the right vicinity is the ‘Kili-view’ pub, lit by yellowed light bulbs and populated by only a handful. In the absence of the real thing, a large billboard advertises the imposing mass of rock with it’s white cap and green skirt.
A short night’s sleep followed a late dinner of pasta and a somewhat dour briefing, from our expedition leader, but everyone was good humoured through the fatigue and excitement/nerves. Repack bags, leave unnecessary stuff behind.
28 Dec 2008 – Trail head to Big Tree Camp
My earplugs turned out to be a good idea as my room mate Garry is a little noisy in his sleep! Breakfast-brief slow, and following a reorganisation of bags, we made a late start to our 3 hour drive to the trail head. Waited at a road side shop, allegedly for a ‘man with a gun’ (!?) who never appeared (and thankfully we never needed) We soon became the focus of attention for some local kids, exuberant in their ability to count in English and incredulous at our inability to count in Swahili. Cameras are always a fascination, or an object of trepidation to kids, and this lot were definitely not shy of the spot light! Our porters caught up to us in a big truck and we all headed off again towards the mountain. Rumour was that we waited there because it was safer from bandits than at the gate…
Massive registration/bag weighing queue, used my first ‘hole in the floor’ toilet of the trip and coped admirably. Eventually set out very late, after 1430, then piled out and started the trek an hour early due to a muddy crater in road. Steady-steady, ‘pole-pole’. Winding, fragrant, hilly, green, green, green. Bird sounds, frogs, cicadas, green, perfect temperatures (for walking – 20ish, bit less perhaps), slow pace, very slippery, steady, progression of porters going past loaded to the max, one with a radio, 40 in all, just for our group (9). Good banter between us, our guides Limo, James and Thomas are great. Quiet, but very friendly when you get them going. I took a load of photos and some video but would like to have done more. Physically knackered but feeling much better than I was and fit for the rest.
Arrived at camp just as darkness fell. Wow, bustling metropolis! Must be a good 200 people here. Will be interesting to see it in the light. Stars are amazing, would like to do some time-lapse photography framed through the trees but too knackered! Also not sure how that would turn out with all the people milling around with head torches.
Dinner very civilised, copious – tea, biscuits, popcorn, leek soup, bread, spaghetti, bolognese, veg sauce, banana, all candle-lit, Good chat. Our British guide seems to have to have relaxed a bit, she’s not hugely knowledgeable about the mountain, and is very quiet but is a genuinely nice person if quite a passive leader, but we’re fine with that – we’re not a high maintenance group! Anyway, first night under canvas and the chance for a full night’s sleep. Looking forward to tomorrow.
Elephant dung – but no elephants.
Stuart Westwood 